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| Introduction Wilhelm Lindemann | 8 | |
| Zeitgeist. A Century of Idar-Oberstein Costume Jewellery Anne-Barbara Knerr | ||
| Acknowledgements | 11 | |
| From talmi to costume jewellery | 12 | |
| Idar-Oberstein as a manufacturing centre | 15 | |
| Historiscism and Jugendstil. From the nineteenth century to the First World War | 28 | |
| Art Déco | 34 | |
| Heralds of Art Déco in Idar-Oberstein | 34 | |
| The 1920s and 1930s | 41 | |
| The 1950s | 50 | |
| The 1960s and 1970s | 53 | |
| Related product groups: fashion accessories, objets d'art, handbag bows | ||
| and shoe decoration | 64 | |
| Art and factory - The status of the artist as jewellery designer | 74 | |
| Alfred Bauer - From pattern maker to jewellery designer | 76 | |
| A source of inspiration: Ruth Flerrmann-Füller | 80 | |
| Jewellery designer: Ludwig Bauer | 83 | |
| Conclusion | 86 | |
| Company Histories | ||
| Jakob Bengel | 92 | |
| Friedrich Casper | 102 | |
| Walter Fischer | 106 | |
| Louis Gottlieb & Söhne | 116 | |
| Gottlieb & Wagner | 124 | |
| Carl August Haupt | 130 | |
| Max Keller | 138 | |
| Klein & Quenzer | 144 | |
| Carl Maurer Sohn | 154 | |
| Christ. Melsheimer Nachf | 162 | |
| Gebrüder Schmidt | 172 | |
| Gebrüder Stern | 178 | |
| Glossary of technical terms | 186 | |
| 191 | ||
| Index of names | ||
Arp, Hans 61
Asprey, London 64, 65, 68-73, 178
Ballin, Mogens 60
Bauer, Alfred 11, 54-63, 75, 76ff, 82f, 144ff, 187
Bauer, Ludwig 11, 51, 52, 74, 83ff, 140ff Baumeister, Willi 54,55,80
Becker, Friedrich 59, 60, 63, 79
Becker, Rudolf 74
Bengel, Ida 130
Bengel, Jakob 7, 9, 25, 42, 44, 46-48, 50, 67, 74,
75, 87, 92ff, 130, 131, 138
Bernard, Sarah 31
Betjemann, Ernest 69
Bonaz 42
Braun, Christel 11,130
Braun, Karl-Dieter 11
Bury, Pol 56, 58
Carl Maurer Sohn 20, 21, 23, 28, 29, 31, 32, 43, 51,
52, 74, 154ff, 187
Cartier, Paris 41, 50, 51, 72
Casper, Friedrich 42, 102ff Chanel, Coco 12
Christ. Melsheimer Nachf. 24, 25, 26, 48, 49, 50, 51,
52, 53, 54, 55, 68, 69, 74, 162ff Christian Carl Reinhard Graf zu Leiningen 15
Christofle 187
Cimiotti, Emil 54, 63
Dahmen, Karl Fred 55
Derbyschev 72
Dior, Christian 80
Doesburgh, Theo van 42
Dubuffet, Jean 53
Eli, Otto 40
Elizabeth I. 13
Endeil, August 29
Fabergé, Peter Carl 70-73
Fahrner, Theodor 29,32
Federlin, Gabriele 11
Fischer, Arthur 106f Fischerjürgen 11,75,106,130
Fischer, Walter 53, 54, 55, 57, 58, 59, 62, 63, 75,
106ff, 130
Fißler, Rudolf 24
Fouquet, Georges 50
Fouquet, Jean 43,46
Frinken 15
Füller, Albert 55
Füller, Fritz 55
Gebr. Schmidt 11, 28, 29, 64, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 72, 172ff
Gebr. Stern 28, 29, 42, 43, 64, 65, 66, 68, 69, 70,
71, 72, 73, 178ff, 187
Gottlieb & Söhne s. Louis Gottlieb & Söhne Gottlieb & Wagner 18, 19, 22, 116, 124ff Gottlieb, Louis 19,116,124
Gramme, Theophil 187
Häiväoja, Paula 61
Hajek, Otto Herbert 54, 55, 79
Hartenberger, Anna 93
Hartenberger, Ernst 93
Hartenberger, Freya 11, 130
Hase, Ulrike von 37, 39, 189
Haupt, Carl August 41, 42, 43, 45, 130ff
Haupt, Heinrich 74
Heiderich, Wilhelm 74
Heine, Alfred 72
Henkel & Grosse, Pforzheim 42, 44, 80, 81
Herrmann-Füller, Ruth 54-57, 60, 75, 80-83, 150
Higashikuni-no-miya Nagako 67
Hoffmannjosef 29
Jensen, Georg 61
Jerusalem, Dieter 11, 89
Jünger, Herrmann 55
Kaucher, Karl 51
Kaupi, Elis 61
Keller, Emma 138
Keller, Max 24, 25, 51, 52, 53, 67, 68, 74, 84,
138ff, 154
Key, Ellen 60
Kirchner, Heinrich 55
Klein & Quenzer 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 53, 54, 56, 57, 58, 62, 63, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 81, 82, 83, 144ff, 187
Klein & Schütz 144
Klein, Peter 11, 144
Klein, Robert 144f Klein, Rolf Robert 76, 77, 144
Knieimg, Karl 74
Kollmar & Jourdan, Pforzheim 144
Koppel, Henning 61
Kricke, Norbert 54, 60, 83
Lalique, René 30, 31, 41
Lautenbach, Klaus 11,190
Lautenbach, Ludwig Ernst 178
Le Corbusier 43, 49
Leven, Hugo 40
Loch, Carl Friedrich 42, 45
Louis Gottlieb & Söhne 19, 29, 3, 32, 42, 45,116ff, 124
Lühmann, Adolf 154f
Lühmann, Brigitte 11
Lühmann, Elfriede 154f
Lühmann, Knut 11, 154, 155
Mack, Heinz 56, 60
Mallet-Stevens, Robert 43, 44
Martin, Willy 75
Mauboussin, Paris 41, 50, 51
Maurer s. Carl Maurer Sohn
Maurer, Carl 154f
Maurer, Georg 154f
Maurerjulius Carl 154
Meiren, Petra 11,12
Melsheimer s. Christ. Melsheimer Nachf.
Melsheimer, Christian 162
Melsheimer, Hugo 162
Moholy-Nagy, Laszlo 49
Mondrian, Piet 42, 63
Moore, Henry 61, 90
Morris, William 60
Patou, Jean 38,40,41
Pechtl, Bernd 11,116
Perriand, Charlotte 43, 49
Persson, Sigurd 61 f
Peth, Alfred 11
Petry, Herrmann 74
Pielmeyer, Gaby 138
Pielmeyer, Lore 138
Pielmeyer, Walter 138
Pielmeyer, Wolfgang 138
Piene, Otto 56, 60
Quenzer, Alfred 144f
Rauscher, Manfred 11
Redmer, Axel 7
Roos, Albert 75
Ruskinjohn 60
Sahm, Ernst 40f
Sandoz, Gérard 43, 44, 47, 48
Schmela, Alfred 60
Schmidt s. Gebr. Schmidt
Schmidt, Carl Ludwig 178
Schmidt, Theodor 83, 85
Schwickert, Arno 11,162
Schwickert, Otto 162
Schwickert, Renate 11
Schwickert, Rolf 11
Slutzky, Naum 49f
Stein, Herbert 11
Stern s. Gebr. Stern
Stern Jakob 72, 178
Stern, Moritz 72
Stern, Oskar 72, 178
Strass, Georges Frédéric 13
Svensson Julius 32, 34, 35, 36ff
Tallois 12
Templier, Raymond 43, 50
Tierof, Liddi 83
Ücker, Günther 56, 60
Uhlmann, Hans 54, 83
van de Velde, Henry 29f Wagner, Horst 11,124
Wagner, Karl 19,124
Weckström, Björn 61
Weidemann Jakob 34, 38, 39,40f Wolff, Elias 72
Ziemer & Söhne 24, 25, 74, 75, 77, 80-82, 84, 85
Ziemer, Max 75, 84
